Champagne: How the World's Most Glamorous Wine Triumphed Over War and Hard Times

Throughout history, waves of invaders have coveted the northeast corner of France: Attila the Hun in the fifth century, the English in the Hundred Years War, the Prussians in the nineteenth century. Yet this region – which historians say has suffered more battles and wars than any other place on earth – is also the birthplace of one thing the entire world equates with good times, friendship and celebration: champagne.

Champagne is the story of the world’s favorite wine. It tells how a sparkling beverage that became the toast of society during the Belle Epoque emerged after World War I as a global icon of fine taste and good living. The book celebrates the gutsy, larger–than–life characters whose proud determination nurtured and preserved the land and its grapes throughout centuries of conflict.

“Compelling… a lovingly written ode to this incomparable, festive wine.” – New York Newsday on Champagne

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This year, expect to see lots of events highlighting grower champagnes which are made by Champenoise families who grow the grapes and make it into small quantities of finely crafted champagne.

Grower champagnes with names like Pierre Gimmonnet, Henri Billiot, Gratien and Vilmart are sought after in Europe and they’re what savvy sommeliers sip at home. Their reputation is growing here thanks to the work of people like Terry Theise of importer Michael Skurnik who believes this “fun family fizz” offers a much more interesting flavor experience than a mass-produced bubbly. This year the Independent Champagne & Sparkling Wine Invitational – first large U.S. event devoted to exploration of grower champagne – was held from April 15-18, 2010 in New Orleans with classes, pairing dinners and tastings.

In California, Dr. Champagne aka Jerry Horn presented a champagne-soaked four course dinner showcasing grower wines at Picco in Larkspur on Feb. 23. The dinner created by chefs Bruce Hill and Chris Whaley started with hamachi crudo with tarragon, blood orange and crispy onions paired with Egly-Ouriet Premier Cru Brut, a family owned winery with vineyards in Ambonnay and Bouzy, some of the best areas for pinot noir. Then came poached lobster and caviar with another grower champagne, the Jean Vesselle Brut Oeil de Perdrix, an elegant wine blanc de noirs Dr. Champagne introduced me to. It has a hint of rosiness, like the eye of a partridge.

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Champagne Cheese Assortment in Gift Box (3.6 pound) by igourmet.comLa Champagne is a region of timeless natural beauty. The name derives from the Latin ‘campus’, ‘campania’, or field. In Old French this became ‘Champaign’. Today, it’s Champagne. From the very outset, the wines of Champagne were prized above all the vineyards of Europe. Over 24 million bottles are sold in the U.S. every year. Here are a few cheeses we enjoy with champagne:Chevre by Couturier: It’s nice that CHampagne and CHevre both start with CH, because the two pair perfectly (more…)

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The Finest Wines of Champagne: A Guide to the Best Cuvées, Houses, and Growers (The World's Finest Wines)“Straightforward yet refreshingly opinionated.”–New York Times”Delivers big time.”–Chicago Tribune”My favorite 2009 wine book.”–The Wine News

Champagne is synonymous with celebration and success–but have its festive associations detracted from its status as a fine wine in its own right? Drawing on his intimate knowledge of a classic but rapidly changing region, Michael Edwards takes a radically different approach in this unrivaled, terroir-based (more…)

Domaine Carneros Brut Rose

Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé Cuveé de la Pompadour – Since 2005, all the wines from this Taittinger-owned house in Napa have been made from organically grown grapes; the estate’s vineyards were certified organic in 2008.  Winemaker and CEO Eileen Crane says the vines just seem more vigorous, it’s better for the workers and the wines taste even better. The Brut Rosé is completely dry, but has wonderful strawberry and plum flavors thanks to the predominance of pinot noir.  It’s $25 to $30 a bottle.

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Sangria makes a perfect way to celebrate, especially when it’s one like this with fresh berries and the Italian sparkling wine Brachetto or it’s made in the traditional Spanish-style.

Ruby Red Sangria

This fragrant sangria stars fresh summer raspberries, blueberries and strawberries with the sweet -tart red sparkling wine from Piedmont, Italy called Brachetto d’Acqui.The cognac and crème de cassis add an extra layer of depth and flavor.

16 raspberries
16 blueberries
16 strawberries
1 cup Landy cognac, chilled
1/2 cup crème de cassis
1/2 cup Homemade Sour Mix
1/4 cup orange juice
1 bottle Brachetto d’Acqui, chilled
8 slices orange
8 slices lemon

Add the berries to a cocktail shaker and muddle them to a juicy pulp. Transfer the muddled berries and juice to a pitcher. Add the cognac, crème de cassis, sour mix and orange juice. Stir well to combine. Just before serving, add the chilled Brachetto to the pitcher. Fill the serving glasses halfway with crushed ice. Add an orange slice and lemon slice to each glass, then fill with the sangria.
Makes 8 servings

The bubbles in champagne not only supply a loud ceremonial pop when a bottle is uncorked but also enhance the wine’s flavor.  Champagne bubbles carry aromas up to the surface, and create a fine mist of the wine’s bouquet.  As a result, when you lower your head to take a sip, an explosion of buttery and fruity fragrances that defines the drink meets your nose.

The fizz in champagne has this effect because the molecules responsible for its aroma come attached to fatty acids released by the yeast added to the wine during the fermentation process, or directly from the grapes. The acids are double-ended compounds with one end that is attracted to water and another that shuns it.

As a result, the molecules cluster around the surface of the bubbles, with one end in the bubble and the other in the liquid. As the bubbles rise to the surface, the aromatic molecules are carried upwards and released as aerosols as the bubble pops at the surface.  The huge amount of gas compressed in a bottle of champagne means that a constant stream of the aroma molecules are thrown upwards into the air.  This also explains why a narrow flute is the preferred glass to drink champagne from.  Champagne flutes concentrate the aromas in a small area.

Using a technique called mass spectroscopy, which identifies molecules based on how heavy they are, the scientists identified which compounds were present in the air just above the champagne’s surface. The study found high levels of the chemicals responsible for aroma and flavor.

These included a chemical called Annuionone G, which contributes to the fruity aroma of wines such as syrah and chardonnay and another compound called gamma-decalactone, which gives a peachy aroma.  In a second part of the study, yet to be published, the researchers investigated other sparkling wines, including cava and prosecco, and found a similar effect.

The same mechanism is also likely to be at work in other carbonated beverages, but because these tend to contain less aromatic molecules, the effect on smell and flavor is not as pronounced.

For champagne and traditional sparkling wines the grapes are normally hand picked and hand pressed to give a high quality juice without much color or tannin. After being fermented, the juices from several types of grape (typically Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) are blended together.  Sugar and yeast are added to this base wine, and then it’s bottled. This means all the carbon dioxide released in the second fermentation is captured. The bottle is matured during which time the bubbles become smaller and the flavors develop.

The other benefit of bubbles is the ability of sparkling wines to throw out their aromas means that they can be served at colder temperatures without losing their flavor.

Here are a few basic tips to help you maximize the enjoyment of your champagne.

Storing your Champagne: Champagne is more sensitive to temperature and light than most other wines. For that reason, it is typically bottled in a light-resistant, dark green glass. Champagne should be stored between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit and may be kept upright or horizontally.

Chilling: Ideally, Champagne should be chilled to a temperature between 40 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature can be attained by placing the bottle in a refrigerator for a couple of hours or a freezer for 15 minutes. Finally, the classic way to chill a bottle of Champagne is to place it in an ice-bucket, half filled with ice, half with water, for 20 minutes.

Opening a Champagne Bottle: The trick to opening a bottle of Champagne while maintaining its integrity is to avoid “popping” the cork. Begin by scoring the foil around the base of the wire cage. Then, carefully untwist and loosen the bottom of the cage, but do not remove it. In one hand, enclose the cage and cork while holding the base of the Champagne bottle with your other hand. Twist both ends in the opposite direction. As soon as you feel pressure forcing the cork out, try to push it back in while continuing to twist gently until the cork is released with a sigh.

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If you would like to enjoy a bottle of champagne with a traditional Thanksgiving feast, you might want to go with a Rosé Champagne.

Our recommendation is the Fleury Brut Rosé Champagne (Approximately $35 retail).Thanksgiving presents a real pairing challenge, with flavors ranging from savory gravy to sweet potatoes; it is hard to find the perfect match. At home, we tackle the problem with rosé Champagne, which has enough cut for the gravy, enough fruit for the sweet potatoes and the delicacy and power to deal with all the flavors in between. The Fleury Rosé Champagne is made from Pinot Noir for Courteron, in the southern part of Champagne. They say proudly that their town is closer to Chablis than Reim, and that the style of wine owns as much to Burgundy as the stylish bottle does to the grand marques of Reims. The vineyards, which are all their own, are farmed 100% biodynamically, the strictest form of organic viticulture. The base wine is all from the 1999 vintage. In the glass it has a wonderful, fresh Pinot Noir nose of strawberry fruit and forest air intrigue. On the palate it has a great, small bubble texture with magnificent depth and terroir.